Bar hop along Tkalciceva

‘Tkalci’ to locals, this narrow, twisting street behind the main square is Zagreb’s liveliest. Cafe and bar terraces abound, but there is far more to Tkalciceva than the many dining and drinking outlets that do a roaring trade here on balmy summer evenings. Tkalciceva owes its non-linear shape to the creek it once followed, Medvescak. Alongside, at right-angles, runs Krvavi Most, ‘Bloody Bridge’ – scene of battles between the religious and political powers of the medieval city, in constant struggles over the proceeds from the watermills that lined the creek. Krvavi Most is not only a narrow thoroughfare that few notice; it’s also the name of one of several private galleries here on Tkalciceva. While the street once gained notoriety as the city’s red-light district, Tkalciceva became Zagreb’s main bar quarter in the early 1990s, giving it a vibrancy that suits the place perfectly.