Dolac Market in Zagreb

Zagreb’s main market, Dolac, is the heart of the city, both geographically and spiritually. Set just behind the main square, up sets of stairs topped by a statue of a kumica (a traditional market trader of yore), the market is busy six days a week, outdoors and in. Established in 1930, it features rows and rows of traders’ stalls laid out on a large square, lined with early-opening bars and eateries offering tasty local dishes from mid-morning to mid-afternoon.

The produce is fresh and grown, preserved or bottled in gardens and farms locally. Amid the piles of tomatoes, peppers, plums and apples, you’ll find jars of organic honey, jams and homemade ajvar, the orange-coloured condiment essential to any grilled dish.

Moving inside to the covered hall, the domain of butchers and bakers, the liveliest outlets are usually the dairy ones, where cream cheese is a key speciality – here eaten with spek ham on cornbread, a local delicacy.

Next door is the ribarnica, the fish market, where seafood caught in the clear waters of the Adriatic overnight is brought up from the coast in the early hours.

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