Edinburgh

Overview

No tour of Scotland is complete without a visit to Edinburgh, and for many visitors this showcase city is the gateway to the rest of the country. It is one of the most appealing cities in Europe, with a stunning location and a rich history. Offering a feast of things to see and do, Edinburgh is so compact that all its contrasting sights can easily be explored on foot. From the medieval wynds and cobbles of the Old Town to the leafy avenues and Georgian elegance of the New Town, it is always fascinating. Edinburgh is often eulogised as the 'Athens of the North', but locals maintain that this does not do the city justice.
The city has been the capital of Scotland for hundreds of years and is now home to the recently created Scottish Parliament. All the traditional images of Scotland can be found here: tartan, bagpipes, fine malt whisky and dramatic scenery.These days, though, the traditional charms are infused with a palpable buzz and Edinburgh has embraced the 21st century with a string of new designer stores, bars, cafés and restaurants, as well as a new parliament and the rejuvenation of its dockland quarter in Leith. This is a thriving, prosperous city with a lively arts scene - most notably celebrated every summer in the Edinburgh International Festival which, together with its irreverent Fringe, is one of the greatest arts festivals in the world.And wherever you go it's hard not to be aware of the sheer physical presence of the place - the vertical tenements of the hilly Old Town, the geometric Georgian perfection of the New Town, the verdant swathe along the Leith and the almost incongruous volcanic hill of Arthur's Seat that rises within the city.

Must See/Do

• Picnic in the shadow of the castle in Princes Street Gardens
• Walk the length of the Royal Mile
• Climb Arthur's Seat
• Go to the theatre or a concert in this cultural capital
• Sample the local Caledonian 80/ Ale
• Enjoy the view at sunset from Calton Hill
• Take a train out to admire the twin Forth Bridges at South Queensferry

Food and Drink

Eating out is becoming increasingly popular in Edinburgh and booking is always advised at weekends and during the Festival. There's a huge choice of places, particularly in the New Town and Old Town, from takeaway 'haggis supper' (meaning haggis and chips) to international and Scottish cuisine. Some of the most characterful pubs where you can eat include the Café Royal (with a marvellous Victorian interior, West Register St), Dome (in a former bank in St George's Square), Kays Bar (good beer and light lunches; Jamaica St) and Standing Order (a Wetherspoon's pub in three Georgian houses in the New Town); if you're near the castle and just want a beer, the Bow Bar (West Bow) is ultra traditional.

Shopping

Edinburgh is a great shopping city as it is compact enough to shop on foot yet large enough to support a wide range of shops. If you are looking for souvenirs the best place is the Royal Mile, which is lined with shops selling tartan, shortbread and whisky. Then there are quirky specialist shops along Victoria Street and the Grassmarket in the Old Town, where you can browse for hours looking at secondhand books, antiques, clothes and food. Princes Street is full of standard high street chain stores. It has a large branch of the book chain Waterstones and Jenners, the city's oldest department store, which has a great food hall. George Street is the most fashionable shopping street and is the place to come to splash out on designer clothing. A branch of Harvey Nichols opened at the east end of George Street in St Andrews Square in 2002. The rooftop restaurant and brasserie at Harvey Nichols so far seems to be more successful than the actual store, with London prices putting off many of the local cognoscenti. On the western fringes of the city is the Gyle Centre, a large mall complex where many locals come to do their weekly shopping. Also home to a variety of clothing stores.

Events and Festivals

In August, Edinburgh becomes the Festival City and pulsates non-stop with both official and impromptu performances and events. Edinburgh International Festival, tel: (0131) 473 2000, website: www.eif.co.uk, offers music, theatre and dance from top performers around the world. Close on its heels is the Festival Fringe, tel: (0131) 226 5257, website: www.edfringe.com, an avant-garde gathering of artists, musicians, actors and comedians. At the same time the Edinburgh Military Tattoo takes place on the Castle Esplanade and the Film, Book and Jazz festivals are held in venues throughout the city. Other festivals include the International Science Festival (tel: (0131) 530 2001, website: www.edinburgh-festivals.com) which is held every April, and the Hogmanay celebrations which run from the end of December until the beginning of January. Note that the main Hogmanay street party on 31 December is a strictly ticket-only affair (tickets available in advance from www.edinburghshogmanay.com).

Nightlife

There is more than enough to keep you occupied in Edinburgh at night. As well as restaurants, bars and pubs, there are plenty of cinemas and some excellent theatres. These include The Festival Theatre, Nicolson St, which stages major opera, ballet and dramatic performances, and the Playhouse, Greenside Place, which generally shows large-scale productions such as musicals. The Traverse Theatre, Cambridge St, is Scotland's leading new writing theatre and presents innovative productions. The city's main concert hall is the Usher Hall on Lothian Rd. Clubs include Po Na Na on Frederick St, The Vaults on Niddrie St and The Venue on Calton Rd. Clubs include The Liquid Room on Victoria St, Honeycomb on Niddrie St and The Venue on Calton Rd.